Wake on lan power mac g5

The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable. They look like the original ones and are very quiet. I used them in two projects. The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable.

Secured the power-buttons down using double-sided tape during varnishing. To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases.

Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring. This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again. Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side.

This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector:. The custom-made front-panel cable by BlackCH Mods. They were not cheap but they work. I marked all the connectors on one of the cables to make them easier to identify. Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar.

I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds.

For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings. Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture — so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability. Unclip the front-plate, so it does not get stuck in the auto-opening Apple-aperture. Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms.

I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability. So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound. Not an easy task setting those up, because server PSUs often have proprietary connectors.

Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing. The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside.

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As an extension. Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive. Many cheap PSUs just claim to be W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time or they degrade. This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet. It has the 1U form factor. So, you could actually fit two of them in the housing. The Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug C19 suitable for higher power delivery of over Watts. Finished housing with server power jack C19 on the outside and standart plug C13 on the inside.

These Server PSUs still have some proprietary connectors and some cables, that are a bit shorter than usual , So, I bought different adapter-cables and extensions for the PSUs to make everything universal. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.

You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard. Using high-temperature silicone.

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Best place for the radiator is the front. Here it will blow the hot air directly out of the case. To decouple the vibration of the loop from the case I used a foam seal on the front of the radiator and a thick silicone-seal on the sides and the top. Gluing the radiator in with special high-temperature silicone. Radiator in Place. Thick silicone seal is decoupling the vibration of the water-pump that travels through the loop. The mm radiator fits right in between the PSU and the top-compartment. Two mm high static pressure fans come with the watercooling loop.

They blow out. You could of course turn the fans around to suck air in positive pressure. Every fully modded Barebone has its own new power-cable half of them white apple cables, half of them black OEM server cables. The file upload feature is not working at the moment and once it's fixed you can upload your pictures directly to your post. I wont post any concrete numbers here.

wake on lan and Ubuntu PPC

We have the Market Place for these kinds of posts. I guess you can use it to sell or buy things but please read these rules before posting anything in that section:. New rule, please read. How to use The Marketplace! Besides the upload feature is fixed now and you can post your picture in the first post if you like to update them. Therefore, the Log is complete and pretty now. Haha, that sums it up pretty good.

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I wanted to build a machine for a music production studio of a friend, because his machine was older and had only 4 cores. I probably should have just bought a modded case from you, but I'm sort of enjoying the insanity of doing it all myself. One question for you: do you know the best way to get the non-slip feet off the base of the outer shell? I'm wanting to get that section powder-coated and that's the one remaining non-metal part on it. I'm slightly fearful of hacking at the things with a makeshift chisel.

What motherboard and cpu you using in your project? I have the G5 case and really love how you fit everything in.